Too Little. Too Big. Just Right: The Secret to Sizing a Rug for Your Room

Adding an area rug is a great way to introduce color and texture to a room. There’s more to the right rug than its style and hue, however. The size you select can impact the overall effect. Going too small can make the room look awkwardly chopped up. On the other hand, choosing a rug that is too large may actually make the room appear smaller and cramped. Try these tips to find a rug that’s just right.

Watch the legs

Defining a seating area? The rug you select should be large enough to fit under the furniture. Whether you opt to place all four legs of each sofa on a rug or just the front legs depends on the space you’re working with, the room layout, and your personal preference. 

Beneath your feet

In a bedroom, the rug should be large enough that you can feel it under your feet when you get out of bed in the morning. Look for a rug that will extend about 12-18 inches minimum around three sides of your bed. To achieve this in most rooms, the rug should be large enough to fit about 2/3 of the way under the bed with at least 12 inches extending beyond the foot and each side. If you’re working with a bed up against a wall, a rug placed along the open side of the bed will work well. 

All in 

Not only should your table fit on a dining room area rug, so should the chairs. The rug in this space should be large enough that all four legs of each dining room chair remain on the rug even when someone is sitting on them. To achieve this, look for a rug that is at least 2 feet larger on each side than your table. For example, if your table is 3’x5’, the smallest rug you should look for is one that is 7’x9’. 

Frame it

Unless you’re installing wall-to-wall carpet, the rug you place down should be small enough to expose some of your wood or tile flooring. Ideally there will be 18-24 inches of space around each edge of your rug if you’re centering it in the room

And yet, rules are made to be broken

The most important rule to finding the right size rug for your space is simply to go with what works. The aforementioned rules are guidelines. Using them – and your budget – as a starting point, select the rug that works best to convey the look and feel you’re going for.

by Anjie Cho


Door Decisions: Selecting Solid Core vs Hollow Core Doors

Love those renovation plans you’ve drawn up! The color is fantastic. The new furniture you’re eyeing will work well in the space. Those pops of color are perfection. But, wait. The door. What about the door? Don’t overlook the entrance to your room. Beyond the aesthetics, you’ll want to consider the construction of the door you select. The differences in budget and benefits between solid core and hollow core doors will impact your choice.

Solid Core Doors

Don’t confuse the solid core door with a solid wood door. The door we’re talking about here is a particle board (or similar material) center covered with a veneer outer layer. Solid wood doors, in contrast, are just what it says. If you purchased a solid wood cherry door, the entire door, one side straight through to the other, would be cherry wood. On the other hand, a comparable solid core door would be a cherry veneer over a particle board center. 

Hollow Core Doors

The hollow wood door is not literally hollow. The center of this door is a cardboard honeycomb sandwiched between two pieces of veneer and a solid wood frame. 

Make your pick

If budget is your deciding factor, the hollow-core door is a good choice. The construction materials used yield a lightweight and relatively inexpensive option. You won’t necessarily sacrifice style, either. Many of these doors are impressive replicas of their more high-end cousins. These same perks, however, mean such a door is only good for interior use. A hollow core door does not have the security and durability needed for an exterior door.

The solid core door offers several advantages. With its solid construction, this door serves as a better heat and sound insulator than their hollow counterparts. These doors are also stronger and more secure and as such, they will withstand more than a hollow core door. While the solid core door is more expensive in comparison to the hollow core, it does cost less than the solid wood doors making it a good option for many budgets.

Doors in Feng Shui

In feng shui philosophy, door represent the mouth of the inhabitants in the home. No matter what types of doors you choose, make sure they are kept in good working order and they can open at least 90 degrees. Avoid doors that hit each other when they open. Finally, best to avoid double doors in the bedroom!

by Anjie Cho


Wallpaper: Why It’s Hot Again and How to Hang It

No longer a bad word, wallpaper is cool again. But, this is not the drab wallpaper of 1970. Thanks to popular interior design TV shows and design-inspired communities like Etsy, wallpaper has been resuscitated and transformed. 

With its new, design-friendly reputation, today’s wallpaper breathes fresh personality into rooms with natural themes, bold graphics, and unique patterns. Most importantly, it’s being used in new ways - and it’s being applied sparingly. 

Today, wallpaper is hung to create accent walls, dramatic borders, or unique backsplashes. And you’ll find it in unpredictable places, lining the inside of closets or bookcases. 

Here’s how to hang wallpaper if you’re in a DIY state of mind:

1) Pick a single wall and an easy-to-apply wallpaper.

For first-timers, turn a single wall into an accent wall. If it’s a patterned wallpaper, pick a pattern that’s easy to match up. To make the project even easier, pick heavier papers, which are easier to handle.

2) Clean wall and apply primer.

Wipe down the wall with a rag and warm water. When dry, apply a coat of wallpaper primer to the wall to ensure the paper adheres well. Allow the primer to dry.

3) Measure wall and draw a centered plumb line.

Measure the wall’s height and width, and then mark the wall’s center. Use a level to draw a plumb, vertical line through the center mark for plumb wallpaper panels.

4) Align your pattern and trim bottoms.

Side-by-side, unroll two rolls and align patterns. Mark the bottom, adding a 4-inch margin, where you’d like it to end. Use a straight edge to trim all bottoms. 

5) Measure, mark and trim tops.

Measure wall height and use straight edge to mark and trim the top. On the back of the roll, write a “T” to indicate the top. 

6) Prep the paper.

Lay a roll face down. If pre-pasted, moisten back of roll with a damp sponge. If not pre-pasted, apply paste evenly to the back of the roll. 

7) Book the wallpaper. 

Without creasing, gently fold both ends of the roll to meet in the middle – paste side in. This is known as “booking.” Let the strip of paper rest for the amount of time recommended in the manufacturer’s instructions (usually about 10 minutes).

8) Hang wallpaper ceiling to floor. 

Unfold the top half of a “book” and align a side to the plumb line. Gently apply to the wall, top to bottom, with a smoothing tool. Unfold the bottom half and smooth against the wall. 

9) Trim bottom. 

Hold a straight edge against the bottom of the wall or baseboard. Use the straight edge as a guide while you carefully trim the excess paper with a utility knife.

10) Wipe with a damp sponge. 

Smooth from top to bottom, and from the center outward, with a slightly damp sponge. This will smooth out any air bubbles and wipe away excess adhesive.

11) Hang another piece of wallpaper. 

Unfold the top half and align the side to the paper on the wall. Edges should touch, but not overlap. Be sure the patterns align as desired. Apply to the wall and repeat until done.

You can have a stunning, wallpapered accent wall easily. But, take your time and don’t rush!

by Anjie Cho